July 31

Julian Roberts is the founder and hands-on designer of the independent design firm Irving & Co which he co-founded in 2006. Since 2001, Julian has worked with the founders of Carluccio’s to help build the Italian restaurant brand into a benchmark high street restaurant. According to Julian Roberts most garments are created from flat pattern making methods or drape methods but he has created a method of “hollow construction”. This pattern cutting technique known as “Subtraction Cutting” makes the most of the negative spaces that can be opened up in fabric and falls somewhere between traditional pattern making and drape resulting in experimental garments that break the boundaries o the usual garment shapes. His book “Free Cutting” is now available to download for free from the link below, and is a must read or all fashion students, or adventurous home sewers. CLICK ON THE IMAGE BELOW TO ACCESS AND SAVE THE FREE PDF ON SUBTRACTION PATTERN CUTTING: “SUBTRACTION CUTTING IS DESIGNING WITH PATTERNS, RATHER THAN CREATING PATTERNS FOR DESIGNS,” says Julian Roberts. This subtraction method of cutting causes results in creating a shape by the removal of fabric, not the addition of fabric. This removal not only creates space for the body, but also controls how the fabric falls around the body. The garments are often reminiscent of the work of Japanese designers like Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto and can be worn in more than one way, using the placement of your body and limbs to change the shape of the garment. If you have experimented with draping fabric on a mannequin then you may have found yourself inadvertently using similar techniques to twist, displace and feed fabric back on itself. The great thing about the book that Julian is offering for download is that some of the core principles of subtraction cutting are broken down into different individual methods that you can use to approach your fabric with more awareness of the types of shapes you may be trying to achieve. The potential for different garment designs that could emerge from this subtraction technique are endless. This is because the different sub methods that Julian lists in the book “Free Cutting” can be used either with careful consideration of the subtractions in terms of placement and size, or alternatively, you could use the methods in a process of completely random experimentation. His advice to students entering the industry is: “Don’t be afraid to make mistakes. There is no such thing as a wrong answer. Go out there, open your eyes and remember that creativity is more than just the process of graphic design – it’s the way you live your life.”